I’m Not a Snob

I’m not a “wine snob.” People who prefer attending major league baseball games aren’t sports snobs. Those who settle in with Tom Clancy or a classic Mark Twain aren’t considered book snobs. Seeing a show on Broadway does not make a person a theatre snob. An individual who is more inclined to gaze in amazement at a Monet rather than a child’s fingerpainting is not an art snob. These are all hobbies that require a similar appreciation for their respective crafts, as well as an understanding that the better quality items inevitably have bigger price tags. A wine enthusiast, then, hardly deserves the judgmental label we have been subjected to.

I appreciate wine of all kinds, from the humble table wines of Tuscany to the extravagant Chateaux of Bordeaux; from New Zealand’s racy sauvignon blanc to delicate pinot noir from the Russian River Valley; from a juicy grenache from the hills of Spain to Dom Perignon and absolutely everything in between. And yes, sometimes I am willing to pay more for a more unique or prestigious bottle. But these extravagant occasions are rare, and I deserve a luxury every now and then the same as any hobbyist. Mostly I enjoy the experience of an exceptional bottle of wine, regardless of its price or origins. Do I generally enjoy a fifteen dollar wine more than a four dollar one? Yes. Because it tastes better. Given the choice between USDA choice ground beef or a prime bone-in filet mignon, I would likewise choose the latter, even if it means spending more. It tastes better. I also prefer Cold Stone to Dairy Queen, freshly ground Columbian coffee to stale generic, Sashimi grade tuna to a can of Chicken of the Sea, as well as my dad’s homemade lasagna to Chef Boyardee. It’s not because it costs more. It just tastes better.

I resent hearing degrading comments from those who are unappreciative of wine as an art form. I hear them all the time. I am no more a snob than the gentleman who spends 60k on a luxury vehicle or the young lady that carries a four-hundred dollar purse. That man gets to work every day safely, the same as I do. But his car is more comfortable than mine and has hands-free bluetooth capabilities. And as far as I’m concerned, the woman’s designer purse holds her wallet and makeup just as well as a cheap vinyl bag from Target. But she likes the way it looks, its prestige gives her confidence and the color compliments her shoes. So I don’t judge them; I don’t call her a purse snob. They are entitled to spend their hard earned money on something they value and appreciate. Why am I not entitled to the same?

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California Syrah

Not long ago at a staff meeting, one of our sharp-tongued managers cried “Cool climate syrah is for CLOSERS.  The rest of you can go sell shitty Australian stuff.” He was right. Cali syrah is a tough sell.  Even customers who are open to domestic choices are leaning more toward syrah from Washington, thanks to the likes of Barnard Griffin, Owen Roe, and K Vintners.  Nobody knows what to expect from this varietal in California.

Recently Decanter Magazine published an article about California syrah’s identity crisis.  While not altogether cutting-edge, I found the article poignant and topical.  It’s hard to find consistency in style in syrah from the Golden State.  Some are rich, opulent and flashy; some are elegant and nuanced.  It’s even more difficult to find consistency in quality.  Sure, there are stars: Alban, Stolpman, Qupe, Herman’s Story, Beckmen and, of course, the cult classic Sine Qua Non.  But many, if not most, are one dimensional and disappointing, especially considering the average bottle price is much higher than that of cab, merlot or even pinot.

I think it will be a very long time before CA syrah develops its own identity.  People can’t help but compare it to Rhône.  Look how long it’s taken American Pinot to step out of Burgundy’s shadow.  And that’s a freaking shame, because some vintners in Cali make wines that are true expressions of both the varietal and the terrior.  But with syrah, it’s rare.  But it is amazing.

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Dear Distributor Part 2

Dear Distributor,

Stop sending me paraphernalia with the cases of wine I order.  I am not spending my time hanging your shit on shelves or putting stuff on the necks of bottles.  Do your own merchandising.

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Dear Customer Part 12

Dear Customer,

No, I do not sell the wine you had on your cruise in Mexico/the Bahamas/the Mediterranean.  No, I can’t find it and order it for you.  Try one of the 6,000 that are distributed in the Midwest.

Also, if a wine you drank is the best memory you have of your $1500 vacation, you should probably just stay home next time.

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Miscellaneous Tasting Notes

Luce della Vite Lucente 2007 ($24.99)
Owned by the Frescobaldi and Mondavi families.  If what you’ve read about the 96 point Ruffino Modus impressed you, this is a another must have from Tuscany.  I believe it’s about half sangiovese, with the remainder cab and merlot, which I think drives the wine at this stage of its life.  This wine consistently scores in the high 80′s or 90′s, got 91 from Spectator this vintage, and I loved it.  It’s definitely more modern and a little showy, like I said the merlot is showing nicely– very lush and supple fruit, but I thought it was impeccably balanced and will settle down and develop with even a little time in a cellar.
Penner Ash Pinot Noir 2008 ($35.99)
Lovely, elegant pinot from an terrific winemaker and pioneer in an exceptional vintage in Willamette Valley.  91 Spectator and Tanzer.
Torre del Falasco Valpolicella Ripsassa ($14.99)
Made with mostly the local corvina.  Ripe and juicy, mostly notes of spicy black cherry and licorice with a hint of raisiny sweetness just on the finish. Head and shoulders above the average entry level red from the Veneto, but not as extravagant as Amarone.  Really delicious and unpretentious.  My new favorite pasta wine.
Domaine d’Andezon La Granacha 2009 ($12.99)
One of the must-have values for ’09 Rhones.  100% grenache from 60+ year old vines.  Amazing value and very versatile with food.  90 points Spectator.
Chateau Senechaux Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 ($39.99)
A very nicely balanced CdP, especially considering its modest price.  Drinking really nicely now but certainly made well enough to hold up for at least 8-10 more years.  92 points from Spectator.
Clerico Barolo Ginestra 2005 ($69.99)
Not a wine for every day but an incredible powerhouse of a Barolo. Especially impressive for what’s considered an average year in Piedmont.  And still not ridiculously priced regardless of its noble vineyards.   Although I think I tasted it at least six years before it’s prime.  95+ points across the board.
Warwick Estates Three Cape Ladies ($23.99)
This is a Bordeaux style blend from Stellenbosch, South Africa, whose red wines I typically loathe.  Not this one.  Great structure, rich and chewy, with dark fruit and supple tannins.  Cab, syrah, merlot and the signature pinotage.  Really yummy and impressive for a lesser regarded wine region.  Spectator 90 pts.
Domaine de Janasse Cotes du Rhone ($14.99)
Another spectacular bargain from the Rhone Valley.  87 Wine Advocate, 89 Spectator.
Quartilho Tinto ($11.99)
Terrific table wine from Ribatejo, Portugal.  Indeginous grapes from 25-50 year old vines.  Medium bodied, a little jammy but surprisingly complex for an inexpensive wine.  Nothing truly intellectual but a great Monday Night Football sort of bottle.  Wine Advocate 88 pts.
Carodorum Issos ($16.99)
Terrific value from Toro in Spain.  100% tinta del toro (tempranillo.) Always a 89-90+ point value.
Faust Cabernet 2007 ($39.99)
One of the most popular choices at our recent California tasting, from the supurb 07 vintage in Napa.  Second label of Quintessa.  Very big, opulent, impressive wine although some of the flashy decadence is lost on me.  I prefer cab with more refinement, but I still liked it for fans of that style.
Osso Anna Merlot ($19.99)
Very solid return to form for the poor grape that has fallen out of favor in Cali.  A really nice, plush, velvety wine with a touch of Pomerol elegance.  Wonderful.
Bennet Lane Maximus ($29.99)
Driven by cab and syrah with some merlot and malbec.  This is a really supple, tasty wine from the newer Calistoga AVA in Napa.  A little smoky, with really lush fruit but also some earthy tobacco leaf and dusty tannins.  Hints of Bordeaux.  Really accessible and yummy and a great bottle for big steaks or chops.  Competes with most if not all the big name Napa meritage with bigger price tags.

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Dear Customer Part 11

Dear Customer,

Do not send the cheapest, least knowledgeable person you know to shop for wine for your dinner or party.  If you do, I will assume you don’t give a shit what you’re drinking and send your friend off with shitty pinot grigio and cheap pinot noir.

If you want good wine, come shopping yourself.

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The Spoils of Victory

Recently I hosted a California Wine Tasting.  It was a great success.  When I got home, full of pride and with a box full of leftovers, Jeff said “Are those the spoils of victory?”

Here are some of the highlights:

California Wine Tasting

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Dear Distributor Part 1

Dear Distributor,

If you haven’t called on me in eight months, you are very bad at your job.  Do not be surprised when I don’t invite you to participate in an event I organized a month ago with reps who actually call on me regularly.  You clearly aren’t worth my time.  I don’t want to taste your wines, I don’t want to sell them, I don’t want to make you money.  Get out of my store.

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